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Type-3 fun, or 5 per cent terror

Tue, 2014-08-12 11:49 - The weather cleared up and it has become a nice sunny day.

Kyle saw an orange light tumbling down the steep slope on the glacier and passing him.
He realised, I have got to do something, right now!
Throwing himself at the slope to thrust the pick of iceaxe into snow as deeply as possible.
Unfortunately, that was not enough.
The rope between him and falling Masa became taught.
He was dragged down and he too started to fall…

Force and gravity

Ruler.  (Cropped from the original image by Ejay in . License: CC Share Alike 3.0)

In this world, the unit is often the source of confusion. Climbing is no exception. As an example, here is an extract from Andy Kirkpatrick's solo attempt in Troll Wall, where he had a hard time as vividly described in his own words:

[After hand-drilling a hole to place a bolt:]

I slid the bolt onto the hanger, then pushed it into the hole, but found it was a little too big to fit easily, so tapped it in with my hammer. I felt it trying to resist, but eventually felt it begin to give way. Then, after only a centimetre, it started to bend.


New routing at The Brand - Part 1

"What's the next move?!" I asked myself.
I have practiced the move so many times, yet for some reason in this final leading attempt, I can't recall…

The last and only meaningful gear was 4 metres below — as many as 4 pieces — loads in terms of quantity, but the quality is questionable: a small pecker, micro-cam in a shallow seam, micro-nut placed side-way, and slider-nut placed vertically…

Go down, very fast, up, up, to alpine glory

Viewing south from Aig. Chardonnet

Summitting — it is one of the primary goals in mountaineering.

Logically speaking, it does not make much sense. Mountaineerers often deliberately and willingly choose hard ways rather than just trodding up to a summit. If you just want to summit, then why don't you take the easiest way? Alternatively if you want an excitement of the challenge, then as soon as you finish the difficult part of the route, you should be ready to descend to a safety, rather than stretching to the summit via comparatively easy path, braving a potential of associated risks.

However it seems climbers are not such a logical creature…

Bowline CC Welsh 1000m race meet (04 - 05 June 2011)

Bowline CC runners

Welsh 1000m Peaks Race was held on 4th June, 2011, where competitors run through all the five 1000-metres peaks in Snowdonia (or Wales). Five Bowliners participated it (and all of them climbed on the following day), and another six stayed in the weekend in our lovely hut. Two of the latter five did a supporting run in the middle of night for their friends' attempt of Paddy Buckley Round (an extremely tough fell-running challenge in North Wales; supporting runners' role is by no means easy, either — running with challengers on hilly and rough terrains for a few hours, carrying water, waterproof etc), then went biking the following morning. And I myself tried on my dream climbing route.

Bowline CC Easter Cornish meet 2011 (21 April – 2 May)

View from Zennor Cliff to the west

Climbing on granite in Cornish sea-cliffs is arguably the best in the country; only the potential down side is Cornwall tends to be wet. The weather is always a gamble, and this time it turned out to be … marvellous! Out of 12 days we had 2 days of foul weather and 1 showery day, and that was it. It could not have been better, really.


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